In these articles, you’ll see photos — mostly in color — from the book. Some are real anomalies, others are explained as false anomalies… things to watch out for when you’re taking pictures at haunted sites.
These articles and photos aren’t intended as the last word in ghost photography. They’re a starting point for each investigator.
Try similar experiments with your own cameras, to see what real and fake results look like. Then, you’ll feel far more confident about your ghost photos.
The following is an edited excerpt from the first edition of Ghost Photography 101, by Fiona Broome.
Bring a camera to haunted places and take lots of photos.
You’ll learn the ins and outs of ghost photography on your own. Trial-and-error is fine.
However, the following tips might make the learning process easier.
First, learn where the “hot spots” are at the site. Ask others where they’ve felt the most chills, found the most EMF activity, or taken the best ghost photos. That’s a good place to start.
Take cues from your ghost hunting tools
If you have ghost hunting tools such as an EMF meter, dowsing rods, or a pendulum, use them to help you identify the best locations.
For example, if your EMF meter detects energy spikes — or drops lower than it should — that’s a potential location for ghostly photos. Try taking photos standing directly at the location where your EMF meter indicated something odd.
However, sometimes when you’re in the middle of an anomaly — or a haunted spot — your camera won’t record anything unusual.
Step away from that spot. Turn around and take pictures of it from a distance and from several different angles.
Several ghost hunting tools can detect EMF-related anomalies. Of course, an EMF meter — especially a sensitive meter such as the K-II — can reveal the most electromagnetic anomalies.
You may identify equally good, active locations using a hiking compass, dowsing rods, or more specialized tools such as an Ovilus or any real-time paranormal communication device.
If you have a hiking compass, the needle points in the direction of magnetic north.
However, if you’re near electromagnetic fields (EMF), the compass needle will point away from magnetic north and towards higher EMF. (Movement can easily affect hiking compasses, so I only pay attention to needle variations more than 30 degrees from magnetic north.)
Likewise, dowsing rods can behave strangely around elevated EMF levels. For many people, the rods cross each other at the point where the EMF is at its highest. For others, the rods separate or even swing in circles.
Keep in mind that dowsing rods may also detect underground springs, buried pipes or electrical wires. So, if the rods continue to behave strangely along a straight line, you may be over underground pipes or wiring.
The Ovilus is one of many tools that became popular during 2009. It seems to respond to EMF surges by talking. Using a pre-programmed vocabulary — plus additional words and names that baffle many researchers — the Ovilus “speaks” out loud. Similar tools include the Frank’s Box, the Shack Hack, ghost radar apps for mobile phones, and “ghost box” devices.
If you’re using one of these tools and it starts talking, take photos. Take lots of photos.
If someone’s camera or phone suddenly stops working, that’s another cue that EMF energy is interfering. Take photos right away.
Remember to take photos inside the area where the EMF or other electronic signal occurs, but also step away and point your camera so you’re looking at the location, from a distance of at least a few feet.
Your “gut feeling”
Your “gut feeling” is the single most useful tool to help you identify spots for ghost photography.
Whether you get goosebumps, the hair goes up on the back of your neck, or you simply feel prompted to take a photo, pay attention to those subtle cues.
Share those feelings with others. You may be surprised by how many people will confirm what you’ve felt.
I believe that everyone has some psychic sensitivities. They’re often felt as a “gut feeling.”
Few people feel 100% confident about their intuition.
Mentally note how you feel when you take good ghost photos. Soon, you’ll recognize those “gut feelings” more confidently… and then take more pictures when you do.
It’s important to learn to identify real anomalies and the normal things that can look like them.
However, it’s not as easy to create fake ghost photos as skeptical critics insist. When it doubt, trust your gut feeling.
The following is an excerpt from the first edition of Ghost Photography 101, by Fiona Broome.
Your camera can suggest “hot spots” for good ghost pictures. One of the best indications is a phenomenon called sparkles.
In the late 1990s, my research team noticed bright, sparkling lights that slowly drifted towards the ground after I took photos in haunted areas. They appear to flare when the flash goes off, but the lights linger for about half a second afterwards. On rare occasions, they fade over a period of nearly two seconds.
I called them “sparkles” in my earliest ghost hunting website articles in the 1990s, and the term is now used throughout the ghost hunting field.
If we could capture those sparkles in photos, they might look like the following photo. (It think it’s actually a spiderweb or some hair.)
Sparkles usually appear about 20 – 30 feet away from the camera. They look about the size of ping-pong balls or walnuts. We see dozens of them, sometimes all at once and sometimes in a subtle sequence.
Usually, the sparkles are white or pale pastel colors. Some researchers report more vivid colors.
Sparkles seem to have mass, or they wouldn’t drift towards the ground as if pulled down by gravity. However, people standing immediately underneath them don’t see or feel them as they fall. So far, we have no idea what causes sparkles.
We know what they aren’t. They aren’t bugs (including fireflies), dust or pollen. They aren’t rain or moisture.
Note: Insects immediately in front of your camera can also seem like bright lights, but only when the flash highlights them. In addition, if you’re in an area with fireflies, we’ve noticed that some fireflies “answer” the flash on the camera by flaring their lights as well.
Remember, the anomalous sparkles never show up in photos. (I wish they did.)
They’re best seen through the camera’s viewfinder (or lens), but most spectators (about 80%) see the sparkles whether they’re looking through a camera or not. Both film and digital cameras seem to highlight sparkles. Some cameras are better than others.
My oldest camera is among the best to reveal sparkles. It’s an Olympus AF-1 Twin that my mother bought me, many years ago. It uses 35 mm film. Today, you may find cameras like it at thrift shops for just a few dollars. (I recently found one at Goodwill for $1.50. It works well, too. You might find something similar at Amazon.com.)
Once you see sparkles, you’ll know exactly what I’m describing.
Take as many photos as you can when sparkles appear. There’s an increased likelihood that your photos will include anomalies… just not the actual sparkles you saw.